Here's a patten for the angel baby burial outfit with lots of pictures. If you get stuck just leave me a comment or email me at tastyjane@gmail.com and I'll walk you through it. It's not too hard but it feels like it's not going to work before it suddenly comes together.
Here's what it should look like when it's done:
For the hat pattern click HERE.
Ok - you ready? I use Caron Simply Soft yarn. It's thinner than regular yarn and super soft. I think it's perfect for angel babies. Thicker yarns will make bigger outfits - smaller yarns will make smaller outfits. I use an F hook by my friend who got me started on this project uses a G with the same yarn. It's mostly a matter of preference.
In looking at the pictures you'll think everything was upside down. But I did it that way because that's how it looks when you are crocheting it - you do it from the top down so it does look upside down, but I did that for a reason.
In looking at the pictures you'll think everything was upside down. But I did it that way because that's how it looks when you are crocheting it - you do it from the top down so it does look upside down, but I did that for a reason.
Ch 40 - turn.
Row 1: sc 6 - sc 3 in next stitch (shell-sh) - sc 7 - sh - sc 9 - sh - sc 7 - sh - sc 6 - ch 1 - turn
Row 2: sc in each stitch across - ch 1 - turn
Row 3: sc 7 - sh - sc 9 - sh - sc 11 - sh - sc 9 - sh - sc 7 - ch 1 - turn
Notice how all your shell stitches should kind of match up. That will end up being a turning point.
Your work may kind of curl up but that's ok. You just need more rows to help hold it down.
Row 4: sc in each stitch across - ch 1 - turn
Row 5: sc 8 - sh - sc 11 - sh - sc 13 - sh - sc 11 - sh - 8 - ch 1 - turn
For this pattern I changed colors just after row 5. You do not have to change colors. You can make a solid colored outfit and it may be easier to just do a solid one first.
Row 6: sc in each stitch across - ch 1 - turn
Row 7: sc 9 - sh - sc 13 - sh - sc 15 - sh - sc 13 - sh - sc 9 - ch 1 - turn
Row 8: sc in each stich across - ch 1 - turn
This is what your outfit should look like after row 8:
Row 9: sc 10 - skip 16 - sc across till the next turn - skip 16 - sc 10 - chain 1 - turn
It helps if you fold over what will become the sleeve when you are skipping 16. Then you can go straight from stitch #10 and keep going. It should look like a normal sc when you are done with this one. It is just skipping 16 in between. The skipped 16 will make the sleeve. It feels kind of weird on this row - but it will be easier after this first row. The sleeves are done you will not crochet around them any more.
Here's what the outfit should look like after row 9 is done:
Row 10: sc in each stitch across - ch 1 - turn - for this pattern I changed colors after row 10. You do not have to switch colors.
Rows 11-20: sc across - ch 1 - turn. This is the easiest part of the shirt. Just single crochet straight across.
Tie off after Row 20
Now you're going to be making the diaper part. If you have exactly the right number of stitches you'll count in 10 stitches. If you're off a tiny bit you'll want to start directly below the armpit of the outfit. Just fold it over in a straight line and start on the bottom row where the fold is. Counting will be easier when you are starting.
Row 21: Skip 10 (no stitches at all) - stitch 20 - Ch 1 - turn. (there should be 10 skipped on each end)
You'll want to stitch in between the armpits of the outfit. Your numbers may get a little off in this part. That's ok! Just know that you want to stitch between the two armpits and you'll be good. Sometimes you may have 19 or 21 stitches instead of 20 - but you should be really close to 20.
Row 22-23: sc in each stitch across
Row 24: skip the first stitch - sc in each stitch across but...
... skip second to the last stitch - sc in the last stitch - ch 1 - turn
This will make your rows start to look kind of like a pyramid.
Row 25: sc in each stitch across - ch 1 - turn
Repeat 24 and 25 until you are down to 8 stitches across. If you started this part with 19 or 21 stitches then just go down to 9 stitches across. Then you'll do one row of 8 or 9 stitches across (all sc) before you move onto the next part.
A: sc 2 in the first stitch - sc in every stitch across - sc 2 in last stitch
B: sc straight across
Now you'll be adding stitches so the diaper will be an opposite pyramid of what you just finished making.
Repeat A and B untill you get up to 20 stitches - or however many you started with.
Add an extra row of sc straight across.
Now your outfit should be basically done. When you fold up the diaper part it should match pretty close to the other side of the diaper and should extend a little into the shirt.
sc around the whole outfit. I switched colors for this pattern - but you definitely don't have to.
First I sc 3 in the first stitch - that will help make a nice rounded out edge. Then sc all the way across.
sc 3 in the last stitch on that row. This will make another rounded out edge.
Now turn the corner and you're going to do the same stitch even though you don't have the stitch under it. You'll want to do about one stitch per row of crocheting. If you do too many it will kind of ruffle it (not in the pretty ruffly kind of way) and if you do too few it will pinch it tight.
When you get to the spot where the diaper meets the shirt you'll want to make a rounded in corner. Just sc 1 in each hole and it will keep it rounded in.
See the difference between the finished and unfinished sides?
As you go around the edges you should have 6 rounded out corners. The top corner on each side, the the corners at the bottom of the shirt, and the corners on the diaper. Every other corner is a rounded in corner and you just sc 1 in those - this includes all the turns at the top.
Once you've turned the corner you'll want to make sure you add button holes. These outfits are sewn to an open position so that it is easy to dress the babies with extremely fragile skin. I usually do 3 stitches down the side - then chain two and skip the next spot I would have put a stitch. That leaves just a tiny hole for a button. It will lay almost flat when you're done so unless you're looking for it you might not find the holes later. I do 4 more stitches and then chain two and skip the next stitch. Then I do that again to make a total of 3 button holes. Sometimes I make 4 button holes - depending on the pattern and what not - but three is what I normally do.
Then just keep going around the edge till you get back to the first three you did of the edge. Then I connect them with a slip stitch. And tuck the end in (just use your crochet hook to weave the end in and out of some of the stitches. These strands are hidden best in the same color as they are - so I hide the white ends with white.)
Finished product front and back:
Technically either of these sides could be a front. I usually have the button side be the front because when you add buttons they are just so cute! But when you add skirts you want the buttons in back to make a nice skirt in front. So both work. I don't have a skirt tutorial made yet - but when I do I'll post that.
Then you can add buttons - just sewing them on like normal or with yarn to match up to the button holes. Often I send the outfits without buttons. Heidi has a sewing day for angel babies every few months. She and her gang usually sew the buttons on for me - they have lots and lots of tiny buttons. If you have some go ahead and add them on. If not - they can do it. Heidi is kind of a distributer of angel baby outfits. She gets them out to photographers and hospitals and mails them on an individual basis as needed.
For more Angel Baby patterns and info click HERE.
